18 February 2012

Fashion Friday: New York Fashion Week, Fall 2012

Despite my best efforts, I am posting my NYFW review on Saturday and not on Friday as I'd hoped. I have a legit reason though! I have been surgically attached to a computer since last Thursday helping out over at Fashionista.com  for their Fashion Week coverage AND trying to keep my own Tumblr updated. So to say that I've been busy is an understatement, but I have been LOVING it.

All that being said, Fall is my favorite season for fashion. You have so much more to work with - pants, dresses, skirts, sweaters, coats - that I think you end up with a much fuller collection. And really, Fall is my favorite season, period. I love bundling up when it's still pleasantly chilly and not yet bitterly cold and I feel like all the best things in life happen in fall. This season was so full of awesome stuff I couldn't narrow it down to just 5 collections. I got it down to 6 and then couldn't cut anymore. So here they are, my favorite 6 collections from NYFW Fall/Winter 2012-2013:

Photo via Fashionista.com
6. Wes Gordon: Newcomer Gordon recently tied for the Fashion Group International's Rising Star Award so he's suddenly found himself at the center of attention. His fall presentation was definitely worthy, though, referencing both Girl with the Dragon Tattoo star Rooney Mara and Charles Dickens. The colors and textures were incredibly rich, mixing fur with satin, lace, and even chain mail. It was beautiful, dark, and romantic, without being alienating or unwearable (with the possible exception of a sweater with giant fur puff sleeves, though it did look cool). I want all of it.

Photo via Fashionista.com

5. Jenni Kayne: Kayne made my honor's list last season, and this year she wowed me again. Her clothes are just so effortlessly hip, and I loved her hunting lodge inspired fall collection. I'm going to need those velvet slippers and I'm a sucker for a punch of neon green. There were feathers and leather tops and fur hats. I mean, what's not to love about that? A shorts suit may not make much sense for winter, but paired with tights I think it would get even cooler. And I think pumpkin will be one of the hottest colors next season, so her deep orange suit should top a lot of lists.
Photo via FashionGoneRogue.com

4. Derek Lam: It's hard to tell from this photo, but this look was so wonderfully dramatic - a full chiffon skirt paired with a cable knit tank. But the looks at the beginning of the show were great too. A floral print jacket with a matching skirt, amazing gold brogues, and lots of leather and fur were some of the standout pieces. Being fall, there were great coats that were simple yet stylish, which is really all anyone could want in a coat that you wear day in and day out. White and black basics allowed the sparse prints and colors to pop. Overall, it was a deceivingly simple collection that was special without being overwrought.

Photo via FashionGoneRogue.com
3. Prabal Gurung: The major criticism of this show is that it veered a little too "Tisci for Givenchy," a critique that definitely was not far off the mark. Still, it was a great collection. I watched it online and kept gasping, "Ooh, that's pretty," at each look even though it really isn't my personal style. The finale looks, sheer gowns with intricate beading, were gorgeous though not wearable for every woman. The best pieces were his impeccably tailored pants and separates, including flared legged trousers in shiny black fabric that could work in almost any wardrobe. Some of the prints and ruffles, though cool, reminded me a little too much of his spring collection to feel fresh, but as a whole it was a great presentation.
Photo via FashionGoneRogue.com

2. Oscar de la Renta: Oscar moves up a spot from last year with this incredibly lady-like collection with detail that my magpie brain freaked out over. Oscar is not a man who is known for his editing, and this collection could have used some; the abundance of cotton candy pinks and blues felt mostly dated. But the pearl and beading detailing, combined with the matching print, felt wonderfully excessive. As always with Oscar, clothes for the everyday woman these are not. If you've got a lot of charity functions, dinners, and meetings with dignitaries, Oscar is your man. For the rest of us, snap up one of his dresses for a winter wedding.

Photo via FashionGoneRogue.com
1. Jason Wu: Continuing his Eiffel Tyler dominance, Jason Wu's Asian influenced fall collection tops my list. As I said, I freak my freak for Wu. He's just a master at what he does. He has a clear-cut vision of who his woman is and he stays true to her without being boring or predictable. It was such a rich, luxurious collection, complete with leather, fur, brocades, and gold accents. It was smart to combine ancient Chinese influence with the 40's Hollywood version of China; it was fun without being campy. A military inspiration added structure and seriousness, and some of the best pieces resulted from that source. Wu is from neighboring Taiwan, and only learned English at age 10, so the collection felt like a personal exploration of his roots. Every piece was beautiful and special.

PETA BEWARE: One of the biggest trends to solidify throughout the week was the ubiquitous presence of leather and fur. Black leather was the big choice for outerwear, and if cool kids Alexander Wang and DKNY send it down a runway, expect to see loads of it in stores. The good news is that it will come in so many shapes and forms you're bound to find something that works for you; the bad news is that good looking leather is hard to come by cheaply. Leather pants came skinny as usual, but were much more popular in a looser, cooler fit like at Theysken's Theory and Narciso Rodriguez.  Leather skirts and dresses are still going strong, like at Calvin Klein. Fur was the big winner though, showing up on hats like at Yigal Azrouël, coat sleeves like at BCBG (gorilla sleeves have not gone anywhere, surprisingly), fur collars like at Michael Kors, and full blown classic coats like at Zac Posen and J. Mendel. And if you're insane (or you just really miss Jamiroquai) Marc Jacobs has you covered.

OTHER TRENDS: Elbow length - or longer - is going to be the preferred glove length this winter, as seen at Carolina Herrera and Tommy Hilfiger, among others. Deep, rich colors, like those I LOVED at Peter Som, are not really unexpected but still popular for colder months. It's going to be all about mixing textures, like the fall standards velvet, fur, leather with silk or sheer panels, as at Donna Karan or Vera Wang. Reed Krakoff even showed coats with sheer sleeves, which probably would only work with those opera length gloves. Shoes are coming down off platforms, with sexy pumps like those at Thakoon featuring details like straps to make them special.

FIT FOR A CRAWLEY: Ralph Lauren may have opened his show with the Downton Abbey theme song, with a collection more Lord Crawley than Lady Mary, but I suspect he wasn't the only one inspired by the hit show. (Which is, head's up, the best show ever.) Ruffian and Tory Burch also presented collections that had hints of Downton. 

THE COOL KIDS LOVED: Rodarte went more commercial than ever, making it clear that they are moving to become a big brand. Their outback inspired fall line got mixed reviews but it was more wearable, so I think street style stars will be sporting some Rodarte come September. And I wish I was cool enough to rock Proenza Schouler's collection, which I loved and so did every other fashion editor. 

I WILL BE BUYING ALL OF IT, THANK YOU: J. Crew's fall presentation was like creative director Jenna Lyons got in my head and said, "Here you go Tyler. Spend all your money here." Yes ma'am, I believe I will. Also, they're collaborating with Manolo Blahnik on shoes this fall. Looks like I will be living in a box - think J.Crew will give me one with a big purchase?

Wow, I am exhausted! But this fashion week has been a blast, really. It's been so much fun to feel like part of a team during fashion week, even though I was doing all my work long distance. I love this crazy industry! Fingers crossed that sometime soon I can review shows I've actually seen! 

1 comment:

  1. I always love these recaps! I liked the BCBG and Preen shows as usual too, in addition to what you mentioned.


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